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[遊記] 柬埔寨自助遊 – 吳高窟高棉王國遺蹟

從機場出來,不用十分鐘就會路經Angkor Wat,從車裡望過去,讓我們急不及待要開始我們的參觀。Angkor Wat是整個古蹟的其中一座寺,也是最主要,修復得最好一座。

感覺:

未去前覺得柬埔寨是很落後的國家,吳高窟也可能是像泰國的佛寺一樣,本著"既然是一個名勝,那就去去無彷"的心情。怎料去完之後發覺很值得去,就不斷推薦給朋友,一定要去吳高窟這個地方,因為它真的比很多外國古蹟更加漂亮,更加宏偉,更加神奇,離香港只不過兩個多小時飛程,怎可能錯過。在中美洲遇到一些外國旅客,也到過吳高窟,我們問他們覺得跟馬雅古蹟比較,哪一個更讓人印象深刻,他們選的是吳高窟。

我們是由越南胡志明市飛過來,在Siem Reap總共留四天,加上越南的行程就一共九天。還是覺得不夠,吳高應該要多留一兩天。

柬埔寨的重要景點  (from UNESCO site & Lonely Planet)

Cultural Heritage Site – http://whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/kh
Angkor (1992)
Temple of Preah Vihear (2008)

Lonely Planet Top 5 – http://www.lonelyplanet.com/cambodia#ixzz2D6Wwl3NQ

1 Prasat Preah Vihear (沒有去,後來看到了照片,很想去)
Marvel at the stone sanctuaries and the breathtaking views of the ultimate mountain temple, a heavenly reward for a hellish overland trip
2 Koh Ker
Wander the ruins of this long-inaccessible 10th-century capital
3 Angkor Wat
Encounter the mother of all temples, the world’s largest religious building: the one and only Angkor Wat
4 Battambang
Discover architectural clues from eras long forgotten, cycle to nearby hilltop temples, and experience the norry, Cambodia’s homemade bamboo train
5 Koh Kong Conservation Corridor
Explore the jungles, mangroves, waterfalls, islands and beaches of the southern Cardamom Mountains

消費

整體消費十分便宜,比泰國便直,跟越南差不多。
從越南到Siem Reap的機票大約 USD$170 – $250連稅。
Angkor Wat 要付入場費,一天証USD$20, 三天USD$40和七天USD$60。
酒店由USD$30起,USD$100的已經是十分豪華。我們住的FCC Angkor大約USD$140,簡單舒服。我們沒有出外格價,都是經酒店安排交通,因為已經覺得很便宜,下面是價目表。

FCC酒店交通價目表

食也是十分便宜,啤酒Happy Hour時段USD$1一瓶。

建議行程

Day 1:
中午到達去酒店Check-in後,包半日車+導遊大約了解吳高歷史 (主要參觀Angkor Wat)

Day 2:
六時看日出,再逛Angkor Wat,再到Angkor Thom
中午回酒店吃飯和休息
回Angkor Thom玩餘下的,再經Victory Gate到Ta Keo和Ta Prohm,完成Small Tour Circuit

Day 3:
走Grand Tour Circuit要大約一整天時間
看日落 (在Angkor Wat和Angkor Thom中間的Phnom Bakheng)

Day 4:
做個Spa / Massage ,下午坐飛機回去

Day 5, 6 : (Extra)
去遠點,一些比較少人去的吳高遺蹟
Siem Reap市中心和享受一下酒店設施

秘訣:

柬埔寨的簽証資料
Consulate General of Cambodia in Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Unit 616, 6/F Star House, No. 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Phone: +852-2546-0718
Email: camcg.hk@mfa.govkh
在日出日落時份,太陽斜照時影相會更美。每一個窟的最美拍照時間都不同,好像吳高窟在早上就會背光,下午二時後去就最佳。
四日三夜的行程會有點趕和辛苦。不用每天都包導遊,我覺得一天半天就夠。
踏單車很遠,兩個人包Tuk Tuk車最好。

再來嗎?

會,因為很抵玩,不想去陽光海灘的時候,來這個古城慢慢玩七天,做一下按摩,應該會十分舒服。

連結

私人導遊 – http://angkorwattripguide.com/angkor-wat-tours/
FCC酒店 – http://www.fcccambodia.com/angkor/tour_transportation.php
FCC酒店Tripadvisor評價 – http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g297390-d550138-Reviews-FCC_Angkor-Siem_Reap_Siem_Reap_Province.html
WikiTravel – http://wikitravel.org/en/Angkor_Archaeological_Park
吳哥每個兢的簡單資料和地圖 – http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/srtemples.htm

行程回顧

Day 1 – 開始Angkor Wat的旅程,來到才發現吳高很大,四日三夜才能勉強玩到重點。

從越南坐飛機過來,搭的是螺旋掌飛機

過關過程十分簡單順利,約了酒店的接送來機場接我們,不用二十分鐘就到達FCC了

先在酒店約好下午的Tuktuk和導遊,就步行去市中心吃午飯。我們吃了傳統的Khmer食物,這個就像淡一點的咖哩雞

這個是咖哩魚,又是另一款像咖哩的Khmer高棉族食品

市中心的市集,日常用品,生果,肉,手信也有得賣

有很多酒吧,大部份都是露天的,參觀完一天來這裡喝啤酒真是享受

吃飽了就跟導遊出發去吳高窟,天色陰陰的,其實也不錯,不用曬

經過一條橋,穿過護城河和外大門,終於見到Angkor Wat了。随行的導遊跟我們解釋Angkor和Khmer的歷史。Angkor Wat有三層,今天我們只夠時間去詳細了解最低層

The visual impact of Angkor Wat, particularly on one’s first visit, is awesome. As you pass through the outer gate and get your first glimpse, its size and architecture make it appear two dimensional, like a giant postcard photo against the sky. After you cross through the gate and approach the temple along the walkway it slowly gains depth and complexity. To maximize this effect you should make your first visit in optimal lighting conditions, i.e. after 2:00PM. Do not make your first visit to Angkor Wat in the morning when the backlighting obscures the view.

來到了窟,基層四面有不同的壁畫,我們就聽著不同的神話和歷史,對高棉王國有了多點了解。這個是他們族人帶著大象出征

The first level of is the most artistically interesting. Most visitors begin their exploration with the bas-reliefs that cover the exterior wall of the first level, following the bas-reliefs counterclockwise around the temple. Bas-relief highlights include the mythological Battle of Kuru on the west wall; the historical march of the army of Suryavarman II, builder of Angkor Wat, against the Cham, followed by scenes from Heaven and Hell on the south wall; and the classic ‘Churning of the Ocean Milk’ on the east wall. (http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/temples/temp-angwat.htm)

這是他們的五位女神,遊到五時多,導遊就說今天要完結了。有點好像太短的感覺,明天都是只租Tuk Tuk去玩,不用導遊了

Day 2 – 五時就起來,今天太陽伯伯出來了,不過一到中午我們就差不多曬乾了,回去吃飯和小睡片刻,繼續參觀。晚上就到市中心湊熱鬧。

今天要去看日出,五時就起床,叫定room service早餐。天還黑

差不多要出來了,有不少內地同胞,拿著數萬元的大炮相機,捕捉著最美的一刻

日出 + 古蹟,一流。有不少旅遊聖地都宣傳要去看日出日落,不過,吳高的這一個真的要看一次

看日出後,人群就散去,我們就趕緊去參觀第二和第三層,在日光的斜照下,更加美

在陽光下看,吳高展現出另一種顏色,陽光穿透到石窟中,隨著時間變遷,看到的也不同

經過不同國家的專家合力,吳高窟修葺得十分自然,很多仔細的地方也得以再現。這一幅是關於正邪雙方角力,他們在比拼扯大纜。

窟的背面

這就是基層其中一面的壁畫

別過吳高窟,我們就向吳高的第二個重點,Angkor Thom前進

來到了Angkor Thom的第一個景點,Bayon。Bayon最特別之處就是有很多大小不同的佛面。

If you see only two temples, Angkor Wat and Bayon should be the ones. The giant stone faces of Bayon have become one of the most recognizable images connected to classic Khmer art and architecture. There are 37 standing towers, most but not all sporting four carved faces oriented toward the cardinal points. Who the faces represent is a matter of debate but they may be Loksvara, Mahayana Buddhism’s compassionate Bodhisattva, or perhaps a combination of Buddha and Jayavarman VII. Bayon was the Jayavarman VII’s state-temple and in many ways represents the pinnacle of his massive building campaign. It appears to be, and is to some degree, an architectural muddle, in part because it was constructed in a somewhat piecemeal fashion for over a century.

Bayon的基層有很多雕刻,都是關於當時人民生活的細節,十分值得仔細看,我們沒有導遊,就偷聽旁邊的導遊所說的

詳和的臉孔,可以跟他臉貼臉拍照

再見Bayon,要到下一個景點了

先去看Baphuon

Huge temple-mountain in the heart of Angkor Thom. Largely collapsed and in ruined condition, the main temple area is undergoing extensive restoration and is not open to the public. The exterior entry gate and elevated walkway are open. Note the unique animal carvings at the walkway entrance, and the large reclining Buddha on the west side, added to the temple at a much later period.

經過Elephants Terrance,一道看似大象托著的大橋

Terrace of the Elephants is an impressive, two and a half-meter tall, 300 meter long terrace wall adorned with carved elephants and garudas that spans the heart of Angkor Thom in front of Baphuon, Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace area. The northern section of the wall displays some particularly fine sculpture including the five headed horse and scenes of warriors and dancers. Constructed in part by Jayavarman VII and extended by his successor. The wall faces east so the best lighting for photography before noon. The Terrace of the Leper King is at the north end of the Terrace of the Elephants.

在Elephants Terrance和Leper King Terrance中間就是到Phimeanakas的入口

Impressive laterite and sandstone pyramid. The lack of surviving carvings leaves it artistically uninteresting, but it is the tallest scalable temple in Angkor Thom, providing a nice view from the top.

最後來到Leper King Terrance,這裡的雕刻也很精細

A double terrace wall at the north end of the Terrace of Elephants with deeply carved nagas, demons and other mythological beings. The inner wall is an earlier version of the outer wall that was covered at the time the outer wall was added. The inner wall was excavated by French archaeologists in the late 1990s. The terrace was named for the statue of the ‘Leper King’ that sits on top.

參見大王﹗

太熱了要回去酒店休息一下,三天要走完吳高真的有點趕

冷氣+大床,就算玩不完,也要先睡片刻

繼續room service,食物不錯

我們的Tuktuk司機,出發吧

回到Angkor Thom,再穿過Victoria Gate,來到了Ta Keo。Ta Keo跟其他很不同,就像一個金字塔一樣

Towering but plainly decorated temple-mountain dedicated to Shiva. Known in its time as ‘the mountain with golden peaks.’ The first to be constructed wholly of sandstone, this temple employing huge sandstone blocks. Constructed under three kings, begun by Jayavarman V as his state-temple and continued under Jayaviravarman and Suryavarman I.

下一個是Ta Prohm,這個像是一家古老大宅

Ta Prohm也是那麼精彩,不同的建築風格,加上與大自然的合二為一,真的不可思議

回程時去了Phnom Bakheng看日落,在這裡也可以遠距離看到吳高窟

The construction of this temple mountain on Phnom Bakheng (Bakheng Hill), the first major temple to be constructed in the Angkor area, marked the move of the capital of the Khmer empire from Roluos to Angkor in the late 9th century AD. It served as King Yasovarman I’s state-temple at the center of his new capital city Yasodharapura.

晚上的"The Passage",一條都是餐廳的小街

另一條都是酒吧的大街,真難怪那麼多外國遊客喜歡到來

魚仔咬死皮,真不知道衛生不衛生

Day 3 – 今天要征服Grand Circuit Tour,一天剛剛好。

吃過豐富的早餐就開始行程

來到了Preah Khan

Preah Khan is a huge, highly explorable monastic complex. Full of carvings, passages and photo opportunities. It originally served as a Buddhist monastery and school, engaging over 1000 monks. For a short period it was also the residence of King Jayavarman VII during the reconstruction of his permanent home in Angkor Thom. Preah Khan means ‘sacred sword.’

Ta Som

Small, classic Bayon-style monastic complex consisting of a relatively flat enclosure, face tower gopuras and cruciform interior sanctuaries much like a miniature version of Ta Prohm. Many of the carvings are in good condition and display particularly fine execution for late 12th century works.

East Mebon也是像金字塔一樣的大祭台

East Mebon is a large temple-mountain-like ruin, rising three levels and crowned by five towers. Jayavarman IV, a usurper to the throne, moved the capital from Angkor to Koh Ker in 928AD.

East Mebon的四角都有大象

沿途的稻田

Banteay Kdei是我們最後的一個參觀景點

常常見到的跳舞人雕刻

Sprawling, largely unrestored, monastic complex in much the same style as Ta Prohm. It was originally constructed over the site of an earlier temple, and functioned as a Buddhist monastery under Jayavarman VII. As with other works of Jayavarman VII’s era, it is a tightly packed architectural muddle, which like Bayon, suffered from several changes in the plans at the time of construction. It was also built using an inferior grade of sandstone and using poor construction techniques, leading to much of the deterioration visible today.

Srah Srang這個湖是另一個看日出的好地點

Picturesque baray opposite the east entrance of Banteay Kdei. Originally constructed by the same architect that built Pre Rup. Remodeled in the 12th century as part of Jayavarman VII’s massive building campaign. A multi-tiered landing platform on the west edge of the baray is adorned with naga balustrades and guardian lions. The very sparse remains of an island temple can be seen poking out of the middle of the lake during the dry season when the water is low. Srah Srang offers a pleasant, much less touristed sunrise alternative to Angkor Wat.

Day 4 – 就這樣就用完了我們的吳高三日Pass,今天就簡單地過吧。

在酒店吃過早餐,再做個Spa,就差不多時間要走了。吳高窟的這個旅程,真的超越我們的想像

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